Andasibe, Madagascar
August 22, 2015
Indri (or Babakoto) are the largest lemur species at up to 9 kg in weight and can reach to 120 cm with its legs and arms extended. It is the only lemur that has a rudimentary tail instead of a long tail. It holds its body upright when clinging to tree trunks or when moving through the forest. This ‘teddy bear’ lives in small groups and keep in touch by singing or roaring to each other.
Joy woke up in the night with a migraine, and not feeling too good after breakfast, decided to spend the morning at the hotel while the rest of us trooped off to hunt for Lemurs in the Park. The tracks here were dry and covered in tree roots that threatened to trip up the unwary walker. However, the forest was a little more open than down south and more amenable to Lemur spotting. After a few photos of chameleons near the entrance, we wandered in and found interesting plants and spiders to examine. We soon found the Common Brown Lemurs quite close to our path. A good deal further on we found a small family of Indri high in the trees. They were easily frightened and rapidly moved away with their huge leaps from branch to branch. After our cautious following for a while, they eventually settled down and we got a few nice photographs. Before long they started their wailing call which impressed all present. A load haunting cry that can be heard for 5 kilometres around. Another family of Indri were spotted a little later in our travels and more photos taken. Next were a bundle of three Eastern Woolly Lemurs sleeping high in the trees and providing little to photograph. Finally, we found a troop of Diademed Sifaka which bounced around our heads like monkeys, seemingly not worried by us. In fact we thought that they may have even been showing off a little.
Out of the Park by midday and back home, where Joy was reasonably recovered and ready to join us for the afternoon. After lunch we headed to Lemur Island and the small zoo associated with the Resort. For the Island, we were rowed across a moat in small canoes, much to the laughter of the party. Once landed, we were soon assailed on all sides by Common Brown Lemurs who jumped onto our shoulders looking for food. With their cute black faces, golden eyes and soft little fingers, they delighted us all. More cautious were some small Grey Bamboo Lemurs, who came as close as they dared but stayed on their tree trunks. One Black and White Ruffed Lemur made up the party and amused us with his antics of hanging upside down to receive pieces of banana from our guides. Supposedly there is also a Ring-tailed Lemur on the Island, but he didn’t come to visit us. These Lemurs are the common species we see in zoos back home and around the world but in Madagascar they are confined to the south-west regions and becoming more and more endangered due to habitat destruction. As we understood it, all of these Lemurs are ex-pets from villages or stranded by forest destruction. Although some people decry the unnaturalness of these habituated Lemurs, they are well cared for and serve the purpose of allowing world visitors to appreciate the beauty of these endangered animals.
Off to Crocodile Lake where the resident Nile Crocs lay around looking like plastic models – not flinching a muscle or eye. However, a few in the water convinced us that they were real, even though they very lazily swam along. A cage with a male Fossa was of interest, even though he remained curled up and sleepy, only occasionally staring at us with its large liquid eyes. Apparently there was a female present as well but she remained in a tunnel underground. Fossa, along with Harrier Hawks are the main predators of lemurs. Other beasties in the zoo included some some lovely red-chested White-faced Whistling Ducks and Red-billed Teal, a small family of Helmeted Guinea-fowl and a python, which a few brave souls handled. Having had a good wander around, it was time to head back and to dinner.
A night walk turned up some Chameleons, an occasional small frog and a few insects. No Lemurs, although our guide was convinced he saw a Mouse Lemur. We imagined we could spot its eyes but not seeing any other part of these shy little animals, we were not so convinced.
