Brussels, Belgium

Caught the bus again out to Mini-Europe and the Atomium.

Mini-Europe is a miniature village depicting major landmarks for each EU country, representing 80 cities and 350 buildings and including moving trains, boats and aeroplanes. We had fun recognising from afar, buildings we had previously visited in our trips, such as Melk Abbey, The Palace of the Doge and St Mark’s Campanile in Venice, the Trevi Fountain in Rome, Royal Crescent and Circus in Bath and of course the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

All the models are amazing well constructed and detailed. Many have small figures to show their relative size. Moving features, besides the transport models, included a Matador and bull, dolphins diving and sharks and leaping scuba-divers. Lots of fun and plenty of room to take photos from almost every angle.

On walking across to the Atomium, we stumbled upon a waffle seller and as Elise stated categorically “we can’t visit Belgium without having a proper waffle”, so we indulged. Lovely and sticky and runny (someone got chocolate on their top), we now felt fortified to tackle our next challenge. The Atomium is an amazing structure with three tiered floors in every particle (ball) and stairs and escalators along the force attraction lines (spokes). However, we were not particularly interested in the displays contained therein, which mainly consisted of modern art and how the structure was built. Not keen to pursue the higher levels, we left soon after for the peacefulness of the surrounding parklands.

After a visit to the nearby Planetarium for a display of the night sky and some fun competing with each other in answering astronomy quizzes, we headed back home after a very busy day.

Tomorrow we head off for the ‘old country’, but that’s another story.

Brussels, Belgium

After a leisurely breakfast, we wandered into town to see the sights, detouring around the back of our hotel to visit the church (St Catherine) we had passed the night before. On the way to the ‘Grand Place’, our walk took us past the Old Brussels Stock Exchange on the steps of which demonstrations are traditionally held.

The main square of Brussels is ‘La Grand-Place’. The square (68 m x 110 m) is surrounded by an impressive array of Baroque Guild Halls, the Town Hall and the King’s House, containing the Brussels City Museum. The square is a popular tourist destination and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. It hosts a range of festive and cultural events.

After some window shopping, we walked around some streets outside the square and found a little cafe with some lovely authentic Belgium fare and a friendly cat. On the way back we heard a band playing and joined in the crowd following a group of officials from the Province of Hainaut, dressed in their red trimmed black gowns for a ceremony to dress the statue of the Manneken Pis – a custom carried out several times each week.

Some more wandering around to take in the sights and we caught a bus to show us further afield. Having passed the Mini-Europe Village and Atomium, and the lateness of the hour, we decided to revisit these the following day and headed back to town and hotel.

At dusk Joy and Austin walked back into town to see the famed lights. We were not disappointed. The crowds were still there and enjoying the sights as well. Each building picked out in its own colour which grew in intensity as the darkness increased. Also lots of window shops lit up as well.

Brussels, Belgium

On our way to Brussels today but we had most of the day to take in some last sights of the Netherlands. Headed out to the historic Zaanse Schans to see the windmills. Very much a tourist site but well worth the visit. Caught the train to Zaandijk and made the short walk (with lots of others) through the small village and out to the centre. Along the picturesque River Zann are a collection of wooden houses, small fields with sheep, geese and chickens and eight windmills, and small museums. The windmills were gathered from across the below sea level, Zaanstreek or Waterland region, which was once a major industrial region where in the 17th century it supported shipbuilding, paper and food industries, with its more than 1000 mills. It was a lovely sunny day and we enjoyed our time wandering along the paths and through some of the buildings. An overall feel of a model village and market.

After a lovely day of sightseeing, we headed back to Amsterdam mid-afternoon to catch the train to Brussels. Green fields and greenhouses until we arrived at the outskirts of the city. Eventually finding our way to our hotel, after coping with confusing signage, cobble footpaths and building sites, we deposited our bags and headed off to the international train station to meet Elise.

Hilversum, Nertherlands

Another busy day today. Marianne took us by train to take in the sights of Amsterdam. To start off, we made our way from the train station (Amsterdam Centraal) along the Prins Henrikkade towards the Maritime Museum. Along the way, we noted the many boats in their docks, the red buses, blue and white trams and an astonishing lift bridge, where the tarmacked road suddenly spilts in half and rises skywards to allow shipping to pass along the Schippersgracht Canal. We also observed a range of old buildings along the way, including ‘Weepers Tower’ which as myth would tell it, was the point where wives would weep for their husbands departing on war ships or heading out to sea to fish.

The Maritime Museum (Het Scheepvaartmuseum) was marvellous. Built on an artificial island in Amsterdam Harbour in 1656, to equip the war ships of the Dutch Republic, it now houses a vast collection of seafaring articles, from maps and navigational equipment, recovered ships figure heads, paintings of tall ships and model ships. The Dutch ‘Golden Age’ from 1588 to 1672 tells the story of the rise and fall of science, art, trade, economics and military might in the Netherlands, based on her ability to utilise the sea. Additional displays included the 200 year old gold-leaf ‘Royal Barge’ and the history of whaling.

Moored next to the museum is a beautifully detailed replica of the three masted East Indiaman Clipper ‘Stad Amsterdam’ which sank in a storm in the English Channel in 1749 on its maiden journey to Batavia (Indonesia).

After spending considerable time at the Museum, we walked back into town and picnicked while waiting for our harbour cruise.Our cruise took us along the main waterfront (the Buiten IJ), around the harbour and up and down the canals. An interesting range of accomodation, including house boats and river-side apartments can be viewed from the canal. Amsterdam has more than 100 km of canals, 90 islands and 1500 bridges, giving the city the nick-name of the ‘Venice of the North’. The three main canals (Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht and Herengracht) were built in the 17th century during the ‘Golden Age’ and form concentric belts around the city. These were listed in 2010 UNESCO Heritage Site.

Nieuw Vennep, Netherlands

After yesterday’s busy day, we only had one item on our agenda for today and that was to visit the tulip festival at the Keukenhof Gardens. We had never heard of this event, which runs for six weeks over the Dutch spring, but were so very pleased that our visit coincided with it. After arranging a pickup time later in the day, Stephen dropped us off at the main entrance. A feast of colour met our eyes with every turn through the 32 ha of grassed woodlands, streams, ponds and lakes. Apparently every year, some 7 million bulbs are planted out and although predominately of tulips, also include hyacinths, daffodils, lilies and other flowers.

In a very large display shed, we found floral displays, dozens of varieties of Hyacinth and Lilies on show and a bite to eat. After some 4 or 5 hours, we left this wonderland to await the arrival of Stephen on the road outside. What a fantastic visit.

Taken across to Marianne’s at Hilversum, in the late afternoon. Another lovely welcome.

Nieuw Vennep, Netherlands

Big day today of travel and sightseeing. We started off with a visit to the nearby tulip fields. Steven apologised as the season had gone past its peak, but we were blown away with the riot of colour that stretched to the horizon.

After a short stop, at Austin’s insistence and Stephen’s amusement, to meet some young Lakenvelder or Dutch Belted cattle and Zwartbles sheep in a paddock along our way, we drove to Noordwijk Aan Zee on the coast of the North Sea. A wild wind-swept expanse of sand with yellowish-green foam along the shore-line and wind-surfers braving the bracing blow over tumultuous waves and churning swells.

After stretching our legs for a bit along the beach, we entered the Branding Beach Club cafe to enjoy a Tartare Beef, dutch-style lunch, which despite its almost raw appearance, actually tasted quite good.

From the North Sea to Leiden, where we spent the rest of the day. This lovely University City is criss-crossed by charming canals and booming with bountiful bicycles. We started our tour of this charming place by visiting the Molenmuseum “De Valk” trapsgewijs bekeken (The De Valk Mill Museum viewed in steps). This eight storied museum depicts not only the workings of the mill itself but the living quarters of the miller and his family over different floors. At the top deck is displayed the mechanics for changing the angle of the sails and provides a nice view across the town.

After the mill, we headed for the Hortus Botanicus, the oldest Botanical Garden in Leiden. Although the herbarium was once housed here, it has been combined with the herbariums of Utrecht and Wageningen and moved to a new museum in the northern part of Leiden. Not that Austin had time to visit it anyway. Nevertheless, the gardens and greenhouses were well worth the visit.

One of the interesting historical aspects of Leiden is its connection to the Pilgrim Fathers who settled in Plymouth, North America. On 12th February 1609, the government of Leiden granted permission to 100 English Puritan separatists, including their leader John Robinson, to settle in the city (“No honest persons will be refused free and unconstrained entry to the city to take up residence”). Other refugees had fled persecution in England to live in Amsterdam and Rotterdam. In Leiden, they moved into the Pieterskerk district, living in relative peace and becoming integrated into the Dutch textile industry. However, due to difficulties with respect to language barriers, economics, concerns about the morals of the local inhabitants, increasing censorship and rumours of war, in 1620, some of these people left the Netherlands for America, to start a new life and to establish their own farmlands.

Walking back through the streets and over the canals, Stephen took us into a couple of small community garden squares which were originally established to service the houses provided by the town for the poor. These little gardens are tucked away from the main streets and can be visited, provided you are respectful of the peaceful and quiet aspect they offer.

The last visit for the day was to the Burcht van Leiden, an old shell fort, used to harbour the populace if an invading army was passing by. On a prominent hill in the middle of the old town, it provides great views. At the end of a busy day of sightseeing, we ended up in one of the many canal-side open cafes for a well earned drink and a view of the late afternoon sun reflecting off the water and the buildings lining its shores and the old bridge market before heading back home. A lovely day.

Nieuw Vennep, Netherlands

Today we left Germany for the Netherlands on the train, travelling through farmland and towns for 4 hours 40 minutes. At Frankfurt Railway Station we found a great model railway enclosed in a glass case – thinking of Karl of course. Our trip was uneventful and relaxing.

Arriving at Nieuw Vennep just before 7 pm, we wondered how we might recognise Petra but when we saw Von striding across the carpark towards us, we had no doubts. A great welcome, as if we were close family. When we got home, we were really made to feel at home. A quaint attic room up a narrow, curving staircase was ours.

Frankfurt, Germany

After attending a small street church, today saw us heading across to the Palmergarten (Palm Garden) on a local bus. This famous tourist attraction consists of a range of sections comprising the Rose Garden, Heather Garden, Cactus Garden, Rockery, Steepe Meadow, Palm House, Alpine House, Greenhouse, Tropical House and others. We were a bit surprised that we had to pay an entrance fee but it was a lovely day and there was lots to see, even though the gardens were relatively small. We particularly liked the ornamental lake with its geese, tortoises and paddle boats. Lots of families having picnics on the lawns. The huge cactus house had some fascinating plants.

In the afternoon we crossed the river and made our way to the Rubens Exhibition in the Museumsufer. Not only were his paintings displayed but the story of how he constructed his art from subject, sketch and style to composition and technique was told, using some of his famous works. Comparison was made with other artists such as Titian and Goltzius, showing their influence and inspiration on his work.

The Rubens exhibition was only part of the art-work in the Museum and we enjoyed much of the other work on display as well.

Frankfurt, Germany

The next day saw us furthering our train trip through Germany, this time heading for Frankfurt.

We arrived fairly early and after finding our hotel (Europa Life), we headed off down the street to the River Main. Our hotel being located on a tram line on a major street and not far from the river, it was a good choice.

A beautiful day, we strolled along the footpath admiring the views, the flowering trees and the local geese. Lots of people out and about, also enjoying the sunny weather. We finished our river walk at the entrance to the old town (Altstadt). We enquired about times for river cruises and found that they weren’t running until later in the season. So we wandered into town to the main square (Romerberg) which wasn’t particularly large but surrounded by an array of what appeared to be old medieval buildings. We soon found out that all we could see had been rebuilt after the destruction of the historic old town during an air raid in 1944. A little bit of souvenir shopping (T-shirts for the grand-kids) and some photos.

Outside the square, we found some churches and museums. We popped into the Church of Old Nicholas (Alde Nikolaikirche) – a relatively small and reflective place and St. Bartholomew Frankfurt Cathredral – with its soaring pillars and high vaulted ceilings (though nowhere near as ornate as others we have seen).

Home again for some take-away from a small restaurant next door that sold Turkish, Persian and Arabic food.

Munich, Germany

Headed out to the fantastical Neuschwanstein Castle, built by King Ludwig II of Bavaria (often known as Mad King Ludwig) between 1868 to 1882. A two hour train journey from Munich to the town of Füssen and then a 10 minute bus ride to the village of Hohenschwangau. A long queue to purchase entrance tickets to the castle. Another local bus up the hill to a coach stop and then another 15 minutes steep walk to the castle gates. On the way, a slight detour takes you to Queen Mary’s Bridge (Marienbrucke Bridge) above Pollat Gorge, where grand views of the castle, with its distinctive turrets and towers can be had. Even after arrival at the gates, there is a rather longish wait with pre-purchased ticket in hand until your guided tour group is called out. The tour lasts about 35 minutes with no loitering or internal photographs allowed. Such a shame to be so hampered after such an ‘ordeal’ to get here. But, to be fair, the tour guides have to cater for up to 6000 visitors/day at the height of the tourist season. Blame it on Walt Disney who used the castle architecture as the foundation for his iconic Sleeping Beauty Castle. However, the castle has also served as a backdrop for a number of other films, including ‘The Great Escape’ and ‘Chitty Chitty Bang Bang’.

Despite the rush of the internal tour, the lavishly decorated halls and rooms and furnishings were fascinating. Ludwig had an obsessive fascination for Richard Wagner’s Opera’s and particularly for the legends of Lohengrin, the Swan Knight, the legends of the Holy Grail and the writings of the medieval epic poet, Wolfram von Eschenbach. Many of the large wall paintings and tapestries depict these themes.

After our tour we headed back down the hill with the thought of catching a horse carriage ride down to the village. After waiting for a while to mount what we thought were the last seats on one carriage, the horse driver attempted to crowd another extra two passengers on-board, at which stage we decided the cramped conditions would be too uncomfortable for Joy’s hip, and walked down the hill instead. It turned out to be a pleasant walk down the road and through the woods.

Our castle ticket also gave us a pass to Hohenschwangau Castle on a smaller hill on the other side of the village. This castle, originally called Schwanstein Castle, was where Ludwig grew up under the shadow of what was then the ruins of Vorderhohenschwangau Castle and Hinterhohenschwangau Castle, which were to became Neuschwanstein Castle. A similar sets of rules relate to touring Hohenschwangau Castle and the interior is similarly decorated as Neuschwanstein but depicting a range of medieval knights and their quests. The gardens and surrounds are varied and interesting.

After our castle tours, we bought some take-away lunch and strolled down to the Alpsee Lake on the edge of the village. While watching the dabbling ducks we revelled in the warm sunshine and the snow-capped peaks of the Alps in the background.

The Museum of the Bavarian Kings is near the edge of the lake but we felt we had indulged in enough history today. Arriving back in Füssen, we had time for a short stroll down the main street, looking unsuccessfully for a pair of sandals for Joy, before hurrying back to the station to catch our very crowded train home.