Antananarivo, Madagascar 
August 25, 2015

We reluctantly headed back off home with our one hour trip back across the lake and down the man-made canal, three and half hours to lunch, half an hour to the reptile park and finally arriving back in Tana about 6:30pm.

Lunch was at the Grace Resort, set up by a little Christian lady who had a vision to leave Tana and go to the forest. A lovely lunch (not too much) with Indri calling in the background.

The reptile park (Peyreiras Nature Farm or Mandraka Reptile Farm) was set up many years ago as a butterfly and moth centre but is now rather run down and mainly displaying Geckos, Chameleons, Snakes, Frogs and Crocodiles. Also had three Tenrec which are funny little hedgehog-shrew animals. There are 34 species of Tenrec of which 31 are endemic to Madagascar. Those on display here are the Common Tenrec. The farm had a number of Leaf-tailed Gecko species, with their intricate patterns and shapes to aid camouflage. There were also at least a dozen species of Chameleon, some of which we had seen in the wild. We took lots of photos. One Chameleon was encouraged to take insects from the end of a stick held up to him by a keeper. For such a lethargic-looking reptile, the rapid flash of its extremely long sticky tongue was startling. 

We had our last dinner together tonight at Chalet de Roses where we all shared a highlight of the trip. Lots of nice things said about Lala, who was rather touched and found it difficult to respond.

 

Toamasina (Tamatave), Madagascar 
August 24, 2015

After a breakfast of fruit, toast and cheese, we set off for a tour of the gardens and reserve around the resort. Lots of local plants were pointed out e.g. vanilla, cinnamon, cycads, orchids and palms. Our Guide called the lemurs and they came leaping from the surrounding garden and forest to enjoy the fruit he offered them. We spent a lot of time photographing Lemurs – Common Brown, Crowned, Red-fronted and Black Lemurs and hybrids between them (including male red Lemurs – Black x Crowned), Black and White Ruffed Lemur, Indri and male Coquerel Sifaka. The Sifaka is from Western Madagascar but is kept here without a mate. We had already met some of these Lemurs, while scavenging food (them, not us) from the restaurant tables or visiting us on the balconies of our cabins. The Black and White Ruffed Lemurs performed some amusing acrobatic tricks for us to reach the bananas our Guide held out for them – leaping over each other, hanging upside down by their back legs or hanging by one fore leg and one hind leg or lying on their backs on a branch to munch their food.

The Indri is a single species but varies across Madagascar in the amount of white is has to its fur. Those in the Pangalanes are almost completely black with only some white between its back legs.

Finally as part of our tour, we walked through the forest and along the beach to a bog with Pitcher Plants. Amazing to see these natural fly traps, sitting innocently among the reeds or scrambling over small bushes and shrubs, where their victims are attracted by the odorous and fatal fluid in their base of their ‘pitchers’.

We decided not to go on the local village tour that afternoon. We both had a sleep and took a walk along the beach.

In the evening before dinner, we caught a boat across the lake to an island with half a dozen resident Aye-Aye. Thinking we would have to keep scouring the trees to find them, we were surprised to find that the guides had put out coconuts at stations to attract them down to the lower trunks. Aye-Aye’s are much bigger than we imagined, with their large fluffy tails, funny pinched faces, wiry fur on the back and long slender and nailed fingers (including their extremely elongated and bony forefinger, used for extracting grubs from cavities in branches. We were only 3-5 meters away from them and watched fascinated as they used their claws and teeth to break into the coconuts with a scratching, sawing motion and ripping action. Joy was able to get some good photos and videos of them at work. A real highlight of our trip.

Toamasina (Tamatave), Madagascar 
August 23, 2015

Set off after an early breakfast at 6:30am for a five hour trip. Three and half hours on a good sealed road through rolling hills of traveller palms, bananas and taro with occasional rice paddies. Most of the hills here have been deforested but there is at least some regrowth evident. Half an hour on an unmade road through thickets of the creamy-yellow flowered Grevillea banksii, until we came to a village, beyond which was a beach on a coastal lake. This is part of the Canal de Pangalanes, a chain of natural and man-made lakes, rivers and waterways that extend for 645 km down the east coast of Madagascar, separated from the sea by only a dune system. Many of the connections between the natural lakes were cut by hand during the French colonial period, using Chinese coolie labour and many lives were lost. An hour’s boat ride down the lake and along a channel with the occasional dwelling and fisherman, until we reached our destination on a beach at a resort. Very nice.

Lunch took a while and we didn’t get our bungalows until later, but it was pleasant just to relax and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. A restful afternoon with Joy reading in the hammock (shades of ‘Death in Paradise’) and Austin taking a little walk through the local jungle. I don’t know – some people are never happy. While we were revelling in the beauty around us, Austin met one of our party on the track complaining about the insects around their ankles (he couldn’t see any) and that the beach was oh-hum and not as good as Australian beaches and that there was a lack of a real security system for their belongings. Another couple were bemused by the ‘primitive’ hot water system (a fire-heated tank) and that they didn’t get a view of the lake from their cabin. Austin refused to let his spirit be dampened by these negatives comments.

The evening found us on the beach enjoying the singing and dancing of a local village children’s group – 5 rows of 7 children each. Later in the program, the kids got us up to dance as well. A couple of the girls danced with flower pots on their heads and some of our group tried the same, without a lot of success. One little girl up the back, not in costume danced with a bottle of water on her head to show how clever she was, even though she wasn’t in the group.  

Andasibe, Madagascar 
August 22, 2015

Indri (or Babakoto) are the largest lemur species at up to 9 kg in weight and can reach to 120 cm with its legs and arms extended. It is the only lemur that has a rudimentary tail instead of a long tail. It holds its body upright when clinging to tree trunks or when moving through the forest. This ‘teddy bear’ lives in small groups and keep in touch by singing or roaring to each other.

Joy woke up in the night with a migraine, and not feeling too good after breakfast, decided to spend the morning at the hotel while the rest of us trooped off to hunt for Lemurs in the Park. The tracks here were dry and covered in tree roots that threatened to trip up the unwary walker. However, the forest was a little more open than down south and more amenable to Lemur spotting. After a few photos of chameleons near the entrance, we wandered in and found interesting plants and spiders to examine. We soon found the Common Brown Lemurs quite close to our path. A good deal further on we found a small family of Indri high in the trees. They were easily frightened and rapidly moved away with their huge leaps from branch to branch. After our cautious following for a while, they eventually settled down and we got a few nice photographs. Before long they started their wailing call which impressed all present. A load haunting cry that can be heard for 5 kilometres around. Another family of Indri were spotted a little later in our travels and more photos taken. Next were a bundle of three Eastern Woolly Lemurs sleeping high in the trees and providing little to photograph. Finally, we found a troop of Diademed Sifaka which bounced around our heads like monkeys, seemingly not worried by us. In fact we thought that they may have even been showing off a little. 

Out of the Park by midday and back home, where Joy was reasonably recovered and ready to join us for the afternoon. After lunch we headed to Lemur Island and the small zoo associated with the Resort. For the Island, we were rowed across a moat in small canoes, much to the laughter of the party. Once landed, we were soon assailed on all sides by Common Brown Lemurs who jumped onto our shoulders looking for food. With their cute black faces, golden eyes and soft little fingers, they delighted us all. More cautious were some small Grey Bamboo Lemurs, who came as close as they dared but stayed on their tree trunks. One Black and White Ruffed Lemur made up the party and amused us with his antics of hanging upside down to receive pieces of banana from our guides. Supposedly there is also a Ring-tailed Lemur on the Island, but he didn’t come to visit us. These Lemurs are the common species we see in zoos back home and around the world but in Madagascar they are confined to the south-west regions and becoming more and more endangered due to habitat destruction. As we understood it, all of these Lemurs are ex-pets from villages or stranded by forest destruction. Although some people decry the unnaturalness of these habituated Lemurs, they are well cared for and serve the purpose of allowing world visitors to appreciate the beauty of these endangered animals. 

Off to Crocodile Lake where the resident Nile Crocs lay around looking like plastic models – not flinching a muscle or eye. However, a few in the water convinced us that they were real, even though they very lazily swam along. A cage with a male Fossa was of interest, even though he remained curled up and sleepy, only occasionally staring at us with its large liquid eyes. Apparently there was a female present as well but she remained in a tunnel underground. Fossa, along with Harrier Hawks are the main predators of lemurs. Other beasties in the zoo included some some lovely red-chested White-faced Whistling Ducks and Red-billed Teal, a small family of Helmeted Guinea-fowl and a python, which a few brave souls handled. Having had a good wander around, it was time to head back and to dinner.

A night walk turned up some Chameleons, an occasional small frog and a few insects. No Lemurs, although our guide was convinced he saw a Mouse Lemur. We imagined we could spot its eyes but not seeing any other part of these shy little animals, we were not so convinced.

Andasibe, Madagascar 
August 21, 2015

Another long day in the saddle as we made our way north, back through Antananarivo (Tana) and east to Andasibe. Every town here seems to start with ‘A’. At least we changed to 4WD’s just before Tana, which made half of our journey much more bearable. It’s amazing how some extra leg room makes all the difference. Our vehicle changeover was also where we stopped for lunch at a holiday resort built on the edge of a lake. A large complex with dining room and a large swimming pool. A leisurely lunch and relax before heading off on the next leg of our journey.  

The villages of the east are largely made of timber, rather than of bricks. Many abandoned factories appear in these parts but otherwise the villages are much the same as south of Tana. Off the bitumen at Moramanga and onto an unmade road into the Analamazoatra National Park but eventually we came to a great resort on the edge of the forest. 

The Vakona Forest Lodge with its scattered chalet-like accommodation, set in lovely lush gardens and its large circular reception, lounge and restaurant was a real treat. Bed soon after dinner to get some good sleep before a big day of potential Lemur spotting tomorrow.

Antsirabe, Madagascar 
August 20, 2015

We retraced our long drive back to Antsirabe today. Our bus is built for the slight and slim Malagasy. It’s a bit of a squeeze for most of us, particularly considering that in addition to our well nourished frames, we have to find room for our backpacks, water bottles, cameras, guidebooks etc. And if you happen to be sitting over the wheel well, it is worse again, with knees up to your chin and a bottom that feels every pot-hole and bump – which are frequent. Eight hours plus under such conditions is not much fun. At least we have curtains we can draw across the windows to keep the sun out. We all rotate around the seats every half day, so at least each can sample the delights of bad, very bad and extremely bad seating. After a while, the bad seems almost good. And because we are all in the same boat (I mean bus), a shared experience lightens the burden and the mood. 

Lunch at the same spot with the dancers. We wish they wouldn’t feed us so much. A three course lunch and dinner is hard work and probably doesn’t help our bus-seat squashing ordeals. At the end of our long, long drive, our guide took us to a gem stone shop, which most of us were glad was closed, as we had had enough for one day. However, we were then taken to a Zebu-horn carving shop, which despite our tiredness we did find interesting. All sorts of wares were available for purchase and we ended up with a fridge magnet of a oxen-drawn cart for Austin’s mum.

So glad to get to our guest house (Chambres du Voyageur), even though the beds were rather hard and the pillows thin. Lonely Planet makes the following statement.  “This ecolodge is a rarity in Antsirabe, an island of nature on the edge of the city. The owner’s passion is gardening and you’ll find some 800 species of plant in its themed gardens (Majorelle, Alhambra, Japanese etc), as well as 14 species of bird, tortoise and chameleon. The brick bungalows are pretty, spacious and very comfortable. The gardens were lovely with their flower beds of tropical plants, large pond with bridges, fish and Leopard Tortoises. Joy made friends with the owners’ dogs and we obtained occasional glimpses of the resident blue kingfisher and found a large chameleon in one the garden trees.

Ranomafana, Madagascar 
August 19, 2015

Lovely spot here on a hillside overlooking the forest and situated in a well kept garden. We all had individual huts which were spacious and comfortable. The beds were equipped with mosquito nets. The dining area had an outdoor deck from which we could look down on the road winding into the nearby village. Here at last we had a glimpse of the lush, green Madagascar we had expected.

The morning was spent walking in the forest, looking for Lemurs of which we found five species. However, on first entering the forest we were shown a Satanic Leaf-tail Gecko on the trunk of a tree next to our path. His camouflage was so good, that even when we looked straight at him, it took us a while to separate him from the leaf-litter around about and had to have his eyes, limbs and tail pointed out to us. In fact, some people, including Joy didn’t distinguish his features until careful study of her photographs later. 

The first Lemur we found was the Golden Bamboo Lemur. Difficult to spot and Austin only glimpsed the end of a tail, though Joy did obtain a good photo. Photography was difficult due to low light created by the dense canopy. An additional problem was that our group was joined by others and some crashed through the bush trying to get a look and of course frightened the animals away. At the same site, a small group of Milne Edwards Sifaka were spotted and again there was a general rush to see and photograph the same. These largest of the local Lemurs are black and white and performed extremely agile leaps from tree top to tree top. At one point we came out to a viewing platform, providing magnificent vistas over the surrounding forest. Here we were amused for a while by a small, bright green Madagascar Day Gecko with brownish-red spots and bright blue tail, sliding around the posts and beams of the platform.

Wandering on for a while, Robyn tripped and landed on the muddy stoney path. As we stopped to pick her up, we realised that a few Red-fronted Brown Lemurs were just overhead. After oohing and aahing and photographs, we moved on to find a pair of Red-bellied Bamboo Lemurs eating wild oranges and then again moved on to find two sleepy Giant Bamboo Lemurs high in the bamboo forest. A great introduction to the Lemur family.

Before we came to Madagascar, we didn’t realise that Lemur habitat is extremely restricted due to a long history of logging and forest destruction for charcoal production – the main household fuel. Today, reserves for Lemurs and other wildlife consist of small remnant pockets scattered across the island. Ranomafana is one of the largest reserves at 41,600 ha (161 sq miles) of tropical rainforests and is part of the World Heritage site, ‘Rainforests of the Atsinanana’. Adjacent the Park is the Centre ValBio Research Station, managed by Stonybrook University, where much study is undertaken of these endangered animals. 

The afternoon was a rest time before a short tour of the local village with its chickens, dogs, shops and kids. A number of us bought bone earrings from one of the small roadside shops. Crossing the river on a winding, rickety bridge (with the remains of previous flood-washed away bridges around us) we walked around to the hot springs area. Here there was a large fenced-off swimming pool for paying clientele. However, it was good to see that there was also another smaller hot springs fed pool free to be used by local children and their families. On the way back through the village, we visited a women’s weaving cooperative, where a number of ladies bought colourful and finely-textured silk scarves and wraps. We watched the shy but friendly women at their skilful work.

A night walk along the road before dinner was a highlight of our stay. We found (strictly our guides found) two Rufous Mouse Lemurs with their big bright eyes (when they weren’t having a quick snooze), in the scrub along the roadside. The guides paint some sugar mixture on trees which attract these delightful glider squirrel-like animals. We also saw a brown tree frog and five different species of Chameleons, from a tiny bright green one about 8 cm long to a O’Shaughnessy’s Chameleon with its green and rusty brown mottles at 40 cm length. There was much competition among our party to spot chameleons with their superior torches and photograph them with their superior cameras – and numerous cries of frustration as camera flashes upset the lighting conditions of others vying for the same shot.