Uncovering History

Vienna, Austria

After catching the tram together into town, we separated at the Maria-Thersien Platz, near the Volksgarden, at the start of today’s explorations. While Austin went off to the herbarium to find grass collections made by Ronald Gunn from Tasmania in the mid 19th century, Joy went off to explore Vienna and surrounds using her Vienna Pass.

Volksgarden views

Joy started off her day at the Natural History Museum, which is one of two mirror-image buildings (the other being the Fines Arts Museum) either side of a large open square featuring a statue of Maria-Therese. The museum has impressive stone staircases leading to many galleries on several levels, and an impressive cafe space under the dome on the top level. Of course, Joy made this her choice for morning tea. Exhibitions explored included prehistoric mega-beasts including a woolly mammoth (and dinosaurs of course), fossils and gemstones.

Maria-Thersien Platz and the Natural History Museum
Dinosaur land

Austin had a successful and fun (though very busy) day looking up the plant sheets found on the Vienna Virtual Herbarium, plus finding lots more of interest. The herbarium is in a 19th century Neo-Renaissance building of the Natural History Museum and covers a network of rooms with floor to almost ceiling cabinets, all stuffed and spilling over with 5.5 million collections from around the world. Using roller ladders to access the higher boxes of folders, it was no mean feat, balancing these weighty boxes down to floor level and to his designated work bench. Rather worn out by the end of the day but well worth the effort.

The interior of the Herbarium

In the meantime, Joy walked through the Volksgarden which features abundant public seating along the walkways, surrounding geometric and colourful flowerbeds and a fenced off dog exercise area. Then using her Vienna Pass, she caught a bus up the winding roads into the Vienna Woods near Kahlenberg for overviews of Vienna. The view was a little disappointing, due to being rather misty, but still gave a feel for the extent of the city. After a short walk in the woods, thinking of Strauss and his inspiration, she enjoyed a picnic lunch, then caught the bus back to the city. Next, using the pass to enter the Royal Treasury in the Hofburg Imperial Palace, she enjoyed seeing the stunning emerald and richly embroidered robes amongst the many opulent artefacts in glass cases.

Volksgarden paths and seating
Volksgarden flowers
Doggy exercises
The Vienna Woods from Kahlenberg
Robes of a Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece

The Distinguished Order of the Golden Fleece is a Catholic order of chivalry founded in Bruges by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, in 1430, to celebrate his marriage to Isabella of Portugal. It currently exists in both a Spanish and Austrian branch; a result of the Spanish War of Succession. Current Knights of the Spanish branch comprise of 17 Heads of State including Queen Elizabeth II, while knights of the Austrian branch include 33 noblemen and princes of small German and Austrian territories. Choice of a Grecian myth as the symbol for the Order was controversial as Jason of the Argonauts, who stole the fleece from a dragon, was not always chivalrous in his dealings with others, even though many of his deeds were interpreted as reflected in the chivalrous lives of the Nine Worthies (Hector, Alexander the Great, Julius Caesar, Joshua, King David, Judah Maccabee, King Arthur, Charlemagne and Godfrey of Bouillon).

2680 carat Emerald Unction Vessel enamelled with gold by Dionysio Miseroni of Prague in 1641 in the Royal Treasury

“The Emerald Unguentarium: As early as the 17th century the 2,680-carat emerald vessel in the centre of the room was regarded as one of the most famous objects in the Imperial Treasury. The tremendous value of the unique showpiece, whose lid was cut out of the jewel’s interior, is illustrated by the story that Genoese jewellers declined to value it as security for a loan which Emperor Ferdinand III (1608-57) sought, avowing that they were not accustomed to dealing with such large pieces.”

Joy then visited the Albertinaplatz Art Gallery to take in the Keith Haring Exhibition. After a coffee and feeling somewhat footsore, she returned to the hotel.

Catching up on the local grasses

After reuniting at the end of our weary day, we found a ‘Borders’-type bookshop on Mariahilfer Strabe, where we had a cuppa and looked through a few books. Another small pizza for tea and back home for a well-earned rest.